Paganum.co.uk, online farmers' market - Yorkshire

I've never ordered meat online as I'm one for a good old eye up and fondle of produce before I exchange any of my hard earned readies.


Lately I have been at a lose end when trying to find a good chorizo as the usual ones I come across are far too fatty/salty/harshly spiced and seem to rely on either far too much cheap paprika, giving them a bright orange appearance and tinny taste. Or rely on bunging in salt, spice and food colouring teamed with soft, poor quality meat that produces a salami of dire qualities that is worth nothing other than throwing in the bin (which is a insult to the poor carcass that was used to make such an abomination). Most chorizos carried by the big four supermarkets; even those carrying the supermarket's own luxury brand, fall into this foul category.


(NB - this does not apply to the wonderful Joselito Iberico Chorizo picked up in Harvey Nick's Food Hall earlier this month - unfortunately I don't own an oil field or have Daddy's millions to support regular visits there).


Having failed to source anything edible I turned my attentions to the faithful companion of the digital age - t'interweb thingy, and thanks to North West Chefs came across online farmer's market Paganum.

I chose the original chorizo, made with local freedom food pork, smoked Spanish paprika and aged for a minimum of three weeks. They also make a piccante (spicy) version, but I played safe as I wanted this to be a multi-use salami capable of being eaten on its own or used in various recipes.


The chorizo arrived vac packed and the boy and I couldn't wait to tuck in - we instantly made a 'bits and pieces' (see Butler's cheese post for explanation). The chorizo was finely spiced with a sweet and slightly smokey taste. The paprika wasn't overpowering and allowed the delightful porcine flavours of good textured, quality meat to shine through. The chorizo used a good ration of fat to meat, adding a delightful sweetness without leaving a layer of grease in the mouth.

The flavour of the chorizo is subtle at first but soon picks up. What is delightful about the product is that it allows for the flavour of the meat to be heard along with the other ingredients.


This is not just a chorizo for eating, we used it across a broad range of recipes including roast potatoes, frittatta and pasta - and in each incarnation the chorizo shone through and complimented the dishes. Unlike one of the supermarket versions, Paganum's chorizos use of quality meat meant that as well as a smokey Spanish flavour, a wonderful piggy taste was added to the dishes - and everyone knows that a bit of pig is always a wonderful addition to any dish. Paganum's use of more meat, rather than more fat, also meant that dishes weren't swimming in a layer of orange grease - great!

Paganum's is not just a purveyor of a good chorizo, they also supply fresh meat, offal and sausages, plus can be hired out to provide a hog roast for your various functions. The price of their produce isn't cheap, but can be guaranteed to be sourced from local farms with high welfare and good husbandry techniques; plus postage is free and only takes 48 hours, so it's a lot better than some other mail order companies. And good news for all you mutton lovers - Paganum's stock Bolton Abbey mutton too, so if you have super problems (like me) sourcing it locally, you can get it here. One other great feature of the site is their meat boxes - think veg box, but full of everything a family of carnivores could devour in a week.


Whilst Paganum isn't cheap, it's a great site for well-sourced meat, especially if you don't have a good local butcher or like me can't track down a decent chorizo or a leg of mutton for your Sunday roast.


Price for one original chorizo - £4.75, delivery - free!


www.paganum.co.uk

Paganum Produce Ltd, Church End Farm, Kirby Malham, North Yorkshire, BD23 4BU - 01729 8380727 - info@paganum.co.uk

Follow the blog - http://paganum.wordpress.com/

Please note, I was sent this sample gratis, but was under no obligation to say nice things.

Embers - Haworth

Another girly day with Mother and stuck for where to try for dinner we asked the Haworth locals, not the usual small north western town type people - the inhabitants of Haworth are far more likely to know the difference between a jambon iberico de bellota and jamon iberico de cebo than which Jedward is which - and after establishing that yes, we have already eaten at Weavers, and no we didn't want to drive up on to the wild and distant moors, then we were pointed many times in the direction of Embers.

Embers is located half way up the quint cobbled street that marks the middle of Haworth and is hard to miss with its cream front and glass covered balcony.

Dining in the middle of the week we were shown upstairs, as the downstairs dining room facing the open kitchen is closed unless it's very busy. However, we were not dissapointed as we were seated in the glass covered terrace - the romance of eating out in the dusk without the chill of the British weather and the nip of the millions of bugs.

The menu at Embers features modern British food such as beef wellington and pan fried duck breast with the influence of countries such as Italy and Thailand.

After a large meal the night before (and a large lunch), (and a cake and coffee), (and chocolates) Mother and I fancied nothing too heavy and what really cried out to both of us was the Little Stew of Crayfish and Mussels, Pernod and Cream topped with Puff Pastry. Although this dish was a starter the staff were more than happy to bring us a larger portion size and only upped the price by a few pounds (rather than doubling it as happens most places elsewhere), and the portion was really very generous.

Small stew of crayfish and mussels

The dish was indeed light even though the sauce was all cream. The pernod and some stewed fennel added a wonderful aromatic aniseed flavour that really lightened the dish up. The whole seasoning and flavouring was very carefully and expertly done as I had been worried that the dish would have either been a bit rich from the cream or a little overpowering from the pernod.

Unfortunately I cannot wax so lyrical about the contents of the dish. The crayfish was overdone, chewy in texture and really off-putting, some of the mussels were fine but the smaller specimens had suffered the same fate as the crayfish. Plus the puff pastry was heavy and soft, it seemed somewhat stale and was a real let down to the dish. Thankfully the bread we had been served at the side was crisp and just the right chewiness and proved a great vehicle for conveying sauce to mouth (and unfortunately down the front of my dress as well, Mother was not best pleased!).

In all the dish would have been a roaring success if it hadn't been for a few slip ups letting it down. The flavouring was really special and spot on, so obviously an indication that the kitchen at Embers knows what is doing and because of this I am hoping the overcooking was a mere oversight for that night only (although I really can't forgive them the stale pastry).

Embers seems like a great place for a relaxed meal with friends, the staff were very lovely and dining on the enclosed balcony was really very lovely; it would make a great setting for a romantic meal for two or a relaxed meal with the family and friends.

Cost for two mains and one glass of wine: £23.45.

Value for money: 7/10

Atmosphere: 7/10

Service: 7/10

Food: 6/10

Total: 27/40

Embers of Haworth, 81 Main Street, Haworth –

01535 642809

http://www.embersofhaworth.co.uk/

Weavers - Haworth

I don’t usually go to a restaurant without any type of research as in the past I have had my fingers quite badly burned (or should that be my tongue?).

Having gone away for some girly time with the Mother I let her book a restaurant for our first night in Haworth and went to it blind, but thankfully not to the slaughter.

Weavers in Haworth is tucked up off the main, cobbled street at the top of the hill in an old house, quite unassuming from the outside. Walking in we were seated in a waiting area by the bar and offered drinks: a lovely slate floored room filled mainly by the bar, decorated tastefully with unusual bits and bobs, giving the eye something to digest whilst we absorbed the menu and waited for the meal to be ready (at Weavers you are not shown to the table until your food is near to being served) – my only grumbles being the cold from the door we were seated near and the lack of cucumber for the gin, I did get ice and tonic with so can’t be too picky.

Weavers Haworth - with thanks to the dailymail.co.uk

In comparison to the light but small bar area, the dining room at Weavers is very low light and sumptuous with its crisp linen and dusky burgundy walls.  The room still has a very relaxed feeling and this helped by the charming, attentive and unobtrusive staff. Our waitress was brilliant, even allowing us to try a wine off the list before we chose. (and so nice she let us sneak in the next day and peek at the bedrooms upstairs – if you can get in do, they are very lovely).

Bread was served as we sat down with fresh, salty butter – proper butter, proper salty butter, none of this health conscious stuff and was I glad of it? You bet.

To start I had ordered the carpaccio of salmon cured with whiskey and dill off the specials and the Mother ordered Morcombe Bay shrimps on toast. The carpaccio was lovely and smooth but I couldn’t taste the whiskey, merely the dill – however it was a pleasing dish with a light, fresh and capery dressing that contrasted beautifully in taste and texture. Mother’s Shrimps on toast was a large portion of the little local beauties served in a lovely spiced butter with flecks of parsley stirred in to it that brought the taste to life on the tongue. The toast was crisp and provided the perfect foil for the hundreds of soft bodies piled up.

Mains followed and we both ordered the fillet medallions of outdoor reared pork, carcklin’ belly,  sticky fruit chutney and crushed organic potatoes.

Medallions of outdoor reared pork and cracklin' belly

When the dish came we were both struck by the delicate presentation – for a plate that contained so much pork it was presented delicately and beautifully. The pork medallion was juicy and not dry in the slightest. I was hesitant about the chutney sauce but was relieved to find it deeply satisfying with a huge depth of favour and was almost a gravy. It complimented the succulent pork amazingly and was subtly spiced with layers of not too sweet flavour and that all important umami.

The belly pork came replete with some of the best crackling I have ever crunched my way through – seasoned expertly and as crisp as it can be, without being burnt or having been speedily finished under the grill giving it that usual polystyrene texture as you get in some restaurants. The pork itself was meltingly tender with only the smallest amount of fat remaining. I was left wanting so much more (although I don’t think my waistline was crying out for anymore). The dish was accompanied by crispy strips of pancetta and crushed organic new potatoes that had chopped parsley crushed in with them – a really refreshing note that lifted the dish to no end. 

Even though my belly was bursting I couldn’t resist the pudding board and however tempted I was to try the Yorkshire Tea ice cream, it was the summer berry and champagne jelly that seemed like the much needed light end to a deeply satisfying meal and I wasn’t disappointed.

Champagne jelly

The jelly was perfectly set with a generous portion of seasonal berries suspended delightfully throughout its wobbly persona. What really took my breath away was the concentration of taste. Like no other champagne jelly I have eaten in any restaurant, this jelly imparted the crispest, biscuity tang of champagne and I could feel the fizz of the bubbles tickle across my tongue whilst just the right level of sweetness flowed into my mouth and caressed my taste buds – here was a jelly I could taste at last! No more ‘champagne jelly’ that tastes of nothing, it was a revelation and I was actually in ecstasy whilst spooning the soft, unctuous delight in to my eagerly awaiting mouth – my only complaint? I couldn’t finish it.

Cost for two starters, two mains, one pudding, one bottle of wine, two gin and tonics and two coffees - £91.70

Value for money: 8/10

Atmosphere: 7/10

Service: 9/10

Food: 8/10

Total: 32/40

Weavers restaurant and bar with rooms, 15 West Lane, Haworth, Nr Keighly, West Yorkshire, BD22 8DU –

01535 643822

weaversltd@btconnect.com